What's Kunming? 昆明是哪样东东?

昆明城市形象片 张晓春作品
In Kunming, water is not just water – water can be love.
In Kunming, fire is not just fire – fire can be happiness.

国内访问:Youku

http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XMjE2NjE3NTMy.html

Youtube:

昆明城市形象片 张晓春作品
In Kunming, water is not just water – water can be love.
In Kunming, fire is not just fire – fire can be happiness.

国内访问:Youku

http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XMjE2NjE3NTMy.html

Youtube:

看完了宣传版的,再看看和菜头的:

比特海日志28月8日,昆明天空下

http://www.hecaitou.net/?p=3225 (鉴于已经被封锁了国内看不见,全文转在下面)

北京36度的高温,走在路上挥汗如雨,我的昆明现在却依然凉风习习。早上五点钟的上海已经被阳光吞没,我的昆明彼时却还在黑甜梦中,满床清凉。在北京眺望西南,想着4000里之外,海拔1897米之上,群山环抱之中,有一片巨大的水泽,在那片水的边上有一座小城,那就是我的昆明。

有一天甚至会厌倦了情人的眼神,孩子的拥抱,但是我想像不出什么理由厌倦昆明的天空。我在车上、在楼顶、在山巅、在自己的书房、在聚会散场后,见到了无数次昆明的天空,但是从未感觉过厌倦。那是一个透明的蓝色水晶碗,倒扣在群山之上。白云奔行而过,星尘复又撒落,可以让人这么看着看着,做一辈子永不重复的白日梦,就像是它永不重复的蓝色。

只有在昆明才会觉得天空有灵,可以和它对话。平心静气地凝视着蓝色的深处,你要一头狮子,那么你就会得到一头白云狮子。你要夜色如同丝绸,那么你就能感觉到它清凉无声地从你的皮肤上滑落,流泻到满地黑暗中细碎的花香里去。甚至是在小朋友的时候,你就可以恳求他说:不要下雨了吧,让我出去玩一会儿。它也真的就此提起雨脚,走到另外的半城里去,留下一道彩虹作为你们之间秘密的约定。在昆明,一个好人是不会被雨淋湿的。

在这样的天空下,日子稠得几乎化不开。不需要你纵横驰骋,只需要你漫游徜徉。喝不淡的茶,看不落的花;饮不尽的酒,吹不完的风;醒不了的梦,散不了的局。在这城里,值得度过无数生,仿佛它就是时间和世界的尽头,可以遗忘一切,一切又从头开始。

所以,今天,我不想去说那些悲伤的话,我不想去说那些愤怒的话。昆明是永恒,而没有人能够破坏永恒的一角,就像没有人能从夺走我眼眸中的黑色,没有人能擦去我皮肤上的黄色,没有人能把一道闪电永远挂在天上一样。我的家乡不受威胁,我的家乡不受损伤。可以炸掉公车,但是没有人能炸掉蓝天,炸沉夜色。我甚至根本不想提这件事情,我只想说:

如果从南部飞来,你能看到滇池如同双手张开,捧着小小的昆明。

 

再看看豆豆哥哥的

一年半未回昆明,拖着行李走到机场候机厅外,一个男人走来用昆明市西山区普通话(俗称马普)问:克哪点儿,给坐车?
我完全没有放慢脚步,滑过他身旁时自然而然地沉下嗓子,用正宗昆明话回答:不消啦谢谢,我打车。
再转身看见出租车候车处长长的人龙,又自然而然地转过身往停车场外走去,因为我知道外边100米处有个航空酒店,门口会有从旁边一条路过来的出租车,不需要等。

出租车司机的对讲机噪音隆隆,电流声几乎盖过了里头传来的话,但我根本不用凝神就听得一清二楚──对讲机那边一位师傅正在跟同事报路况:”东二环南向北,想停车么就赶紧过来“。意思是那里已经堵得死死的像停车场了。

下午和一位不是昆明人,但在昆明工作的朋友吃饭,打车,朋友跟司机说:去沿河路明德中学。典型老昆明的司机不客气地问:“哪样中学?”我赶紧补充:“十三中,十三中,顺城街旁边。”司机哦了一声,接着说:“是呢嘛,哪样明德中学,早就改成十三中了。”──他不知道最近这所回族中学又改回了过去的老名字,而我这位朋友自然是不知道这个学校曾经叫过几十年十三中的。至于顺城街,则也是在最近两年被彻底拆除重建了。

顺城街整个地拆了,改了名叫王府井。我靠,王府井,这名字放在北京是文化,放在昆明就像是在彝族老太的蓝色裹脚布外套了个镂空的高跟皮靴。

晚上和李子木在香港人看来一定脏得无以复加的烧烤摊上吃拌了辣子的狗肉米线,李子木突然说:你狗日的要是生个娃娃连昆明话都不会讲,给丢人不得(丢不丢人啊)!

这座城,这座2400年建城史的城,积淀下来的东西绝对是可以融入细胞的。我没有地域歧视的意思,只不过是想说:城市的血脉,是年头熬出来的。对一些年资浅的城来说,偶然有古迹,那就会被政府和旅游局拿来大书特书,而对年资比较深的城来说,哪怕古迹被拆迁队拆了,但处处有的故事却是拆不走的。而对年资更深的城来说,你哪怕是全拆了,挖开地基盖楼的时候,仍然很轻易地挖到古迹。旁边也往往就会出现一位卖白菜的老头跟你讲这块茅厕板在1000年前的故事。

就像西安人的西安、南京人的南京、广州人的广州、成都人的成都一样。踏在老城土地上的不一定是她的主人,但如果你是她的子女,那无论你在外边天天用的是英文是德文是粤语是普通话,但只要你踏上这她的土地,你就从脚跟处自然而然地知道,她是你妈。至于城头变幻的大王旗,城尾挥舞的挖掘机,过眼云烟而已。

嗯,要是遇到个昆明人骂你生孩子没屁眼,你就可以骂她生孩子不会讲昆明话。

 

想看有关昆明的更多帖子,点这里这里

 

 

Kunming's Spicy Food (By someone born in KM)

Kunming food in its variety and diversity will never fail to satisfy travelers. Take a small restaurant which provides only three to four tables in Jianshe Road for example. This restaurant provide more than 50 kinds of snacks. You can sit around the table and enjoy your tongue a whole afternoon. The shopkeeper never worry about his profit since as long as the snacks are delicious, Kunming residents will be pleasure to stand aside the counter of the restaurant, order and consume the spicy dishes one by one.

Actually, street stalls selling a great variety of delicious snacks scatters around everywhere in the city. If you are not very familiar to Kunming streets, you may find a snack heaven in Baoshan (宝善) Street, which lies in the very center of the city. Please ignore the Mcdonald’s and Pizzahat on your way to the spot named as "Xiang Yun City of Delicious Foods". btw, "Xiang Yun" (祥云) in Chinese means "favonian clouds".

Spice is the spirit of Kunming snacks. If you are allergic to capsicum, you will find an inferno of the above delicious food city. Eventually, God is always merciful, you will survive the inferno by ordering those desserts in the same place. I guarantee even these desserts will make you feeling extreme happiness.

Kunming food in its variety and diversity will never fail to satisfy travelers. Take a small restaurant which provides only three to four tables in Jianshe Road for example. This restaurant provide more than 50 kinds of snacks. You can sit around the table and enjoy your tongue a whole afternoon. The shopkeeper never worry about his profit since as long as the snacks are delicious, Kunming residents will be pleasure to stand aside the counter of the restaurant, order and consume the spicy dishes one by one.

Actually, street stalls selling a great variety of delicious snacks scatters around everywhere in the city. If you are not very familiar to Kunming streets, you may find a snack heaven in Baoshan (宝善) Street, which lies in the very center of the city. Please ignore the Mcdonald’s and Pizzahat on your way to the spot named as "Xiang Yun City of Delicious Foods". btw, "Xiang Yun" (祥云) in Chinese means "favonian clouds".

Spice is the spirit of Kunming snacks. If you are allergic to capsicum, you will find an inferno of the above delicious food city. Eventually, God is always merciful, you will survive the inferno by ordering those desserts in the same place. I guarantee even these desserts will make you feeling extreme happiness.